It's been ages since I had a really GOOD surf. Longer still since I rode a board under 9 foot. The last guy to ride my Bonzerfish was a visiting good mate of mine over 6 months back. I haven't even surfed since my daughter was born... she's a month old tomorrow. Time flies.
Today that same friend mentioned above told me to get my ass out there as I spoke with him on the phone, watching beautiful offshore glassy peaks roll into the pier. I had a ton of work, amongst it reviews for some of my employees - due this am. I didnt really listen to him 100%, for I couldn't blow off those reviews. But I got em done in record time and rescheduled a couple calls.
I grabbed my Bonzerfish.
I ran to the beach.
I paddled out.
I surfed.
I rode that fish like a new man, after nearly a month of being sick. I turned like I havent turned in ages - such is the difference between 9+ feet of board and 6-4. The wind had come up, it was a bit bumpy.... by "normal" standards it was an ok-ish day. But for me, it was the greatest surf I've had in recent memory.... and I walked home smiling with a lightness in my very soul.
Damn I love that medicine....
GRATITUDE
Today that same friend mentioned above told me to get my ass out there as I spoke with him on the phone, watching beautiful offshore glassy peaks roll into the pier. I had a ton of work, amongst it reviews for some of my employees - due this am. I didnt really listen to him 100%, for I couldn't blow off those reviews. But I got em done in record time and rescheduled a couple calls.
I grabbed my Bonzerfish.
I ran to the beach.
I paddled out.
I surfed.
I rode that fish like a new man, after nearly a month of being sick. I turned like I havent turned in ages - such is the difference between 9+ feet of board and 6-4. The wind had come up, it was a bit bumpy.... by "normal" standards it was an ok-ish day. But for me, it was the greatest surf I've had in recent memory.... and I walked home smiling with a lightness in my very soul.
Damn I love that medicine....
GRATITUDE
